PIGMENTATION: ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW
I have stopped and re-started writing this post so many times as pigmentation is SUCH a tricky one, but I wanted to do it as I know so many of you guys battle with pigmentation, as do I. In fact, I’m not sure there are many South Africans who don’t, it’s pretty impossible for us ladies, with this harsh SA sun and our hormones, to avoid it.
We are doomed. Jokes (kind of), there are things you can do but I want to make one thing very clear (which is often not spoken about when it comes to pigmentation): Treating pigmentation is not a once off treatment. There is no miracle cure you are missing out on. Your pigmentation treatment needs to be constant. It is ALWAYS going to raise it’s ugly head (depending on sun exposure, hormones, pregnancy, age, body temperature etc), so you will need to be super consistent with treating it. One beach walk with no spf is going to set you back. That’s just the reality of how harsh our sun is. Keeping your pigmentation at bay is a life long commitment, it is also seldom going to disappear 100%, but can be vastly improved. Right, you can pour yourself a glass of vodka wine now. First things first (and I’m keeping things brief here, as no one wants to read a snippet from a Dermatology report – it’s impossible for me to cover every single facet of pigmentation so I am speaking to the parts that I think will be of value to you), but…
What Is Pigmentation?
Pigmentation is a change in the pigment, often patchy, of the skin. Our skin gets its colour from a pigment called melanin which is created by little cells called melanocytes. It is when these cells are damaged that your melanin production is negatively affected. The damage to these cells can be caused by many things such as sun exposure, hormones, our age and medication (plus lots more). Ultimately, melanin is what makes us beautifully tanned on a summer holiday, as the UV rays stimulate the melanocytes, producing darker pigment. However, this is only superficial and is also causing damage to these cells. Certain people are more susceptible to pigmentation for no single reason, but a combo of your skin type, your hormones, genes etc etc. There are also numerous types of pigmentation. For example Melasma (also known as the Pregnancy Mask) is a type of pigmentation that often appears on women, thanks to the influx of hormones, during pregnancy. This is normally on the upper lip, cheeks, forehead and chin – almost leaving a whitish patch around the eye area, hence its name. This usually calms down a lot post-pregnancy, but can be a battle to get rid of completely. You will also have seen cases of girls being on The Pill and experiencing pigmentation on the upper lip (again, thanks to hormones). One last point that very few people are aware of: pigmentation can worsen very easily, so you may be ticking all the boxes of your spf, and a good skincare routine etc, but still seeing no improvements. Do you know that a high body temperature (from indirect sun exposure ie a hot bath, a heated yoga class and just general summer heat etc) can trigger your pigmentation?! Yup, I know. I researched this after seeing my pigmentation looking pretty bad post-December holidays (where I spent the entire holiday under the beach umbrella), however, because I was hot a lot of the time, it was triggered. This, my friends, is why I am a fan of Winter.
Treatment Options
With my disclaimer out the way, let’s talk treatment options as there are a few: Avoid Sun Exposure: I say this whilst still being realistic (as we live in sunny South Africa), but just take every precaution you can. Spf 50 should be worn on the face DAILY (yes, cold wintery days in the office too), and if you are going out walking or to the beach a sun-hat should always be worn. You all know this stuff, it’s just how many of us are religious about sticking to it. You can pretty much forget any of the below treatment options if you aren’t sticking to this one. I actually had a dermatologist appointment before I moved to JHB and was told by the Dermatologist that I needed to invest in a rash vest for myself to wear all December. Sure, I do have lots of freckles but this is where I draw the line. For me, this is simply unrealistic and no summer holiday would ever be even vaguely an option if I had to sport a rash vest on the beach. NO THANKS (please picture this). I am telling you this story, as I am a firm believer in being super-strict yet also living your life. How miserable and unrealistic would it be advising any South African to stay off the beach all December?! (Maybe that’s why I have pigmentation haha) Skincare: An at-home skincare routine will also be very beneficial in helping even out your pigmentation. There are so many different brands that do fab ranges so I’m not going to go into each one. Just look out for your Vitamin C – see full post on this and explaining it’s benefits (great for reducing dark spots) – a Vitamin C serum will help you a lot here. A few off the top of my head: Sisley PhytoBlanc Intensive Lightening Serum, Avene’s D-Pigment Brightening Serum (new and also a good price), ZO Skin Health Vita C serum, Lamelle Brightening Serum (doesn;t contain Vit C but Arbutin and aims to treat pigmentation), Dermalogica’s new Vita C serum – Biolumin C Serum (see Vitamin C Explain blog post for more recs). On that note, a retinol would be my top recommendation to combine with a good serum (if you are good about your suncare), as this will take your routine up a notch and help slough away dead skin cells which, in turn, will help with dark spots. I use the ZO Skin Health 1.7% retinol. Dermaceutic do great, more affordable retinols. This is an expensive ingredient though. Read this post on exfoliation and product recommendations, as these will all help. Peels and Laser: Your best bet is going to be turning to the hardcore treatments like laser and peels. An at-home routine can only do so much, so best to incorporate the two. Sure, this option is pricey but this is where your proper results will start to show. Again, this is something you can’t do once-off, sadly. Pigmentation is an expensive problem to have – urgh! There are lots of options here, like Fraxel, Laser Genesis, LimeLight, TCA Peels etc – do your research and book a consultation with a specialist if you want to go this route. They will often advise when seeing you in person. It is very hard for me to recommend a specific treatment without seeing your skin. Lastly, I am sorry if this post is full of doom and gloom, but I want to always be honest with you guys and not lead you into thinking one single product is your answer. I want you to properly understand pigmentation so you too don’t get sold a bajillion Rands worth of treatments, only to be disheartened when your pigmentation pops up again on your next summer holiday. As always, shout if there are any questions. Image source
Tori I've been waiting for this post. Some guidance please on my routine and situation if you don't mind:
I cleanse, tone, Vit. C, Retinol, Vit A Skinceuticals Night restorative something, Clarins Double Serum. Is this the right order?
Day time I cleanse, tome/facial spray, Vit C, Prevage City Smart SPF50. That's about it for the day.
I'm 37 with no fine lines really, though since I've started the Skinceuticals products (about a month now) I seem to suddenly have a line starting on my forehead! Urgh…which surprises me. I had zero reaction to the 1% retinol….and can use it daily, but I use it every 2nd day.
I do get hectic blemishes though from hormonal break outs. The pigmentation from that is the main thing I am trying to combat.
Yay I’ve been waiting for this post! Thanks for all the thought that went into it. I’m battling with hormonal pigmentation and I hate it 🙁 I went for a peel today at a salon that uses lamelle, and left with the Luminesence night cream so far. Soooo… I need to get a vitamin c cream too, and a retinol. Heading to online stores now! I also heard the Lamelle Ovelle tablets are fab? I can’t take them at the moment because I’m breastfeeding but interested in your thoughts.
Happy to help, what is your question? Your products you are using are great and the fine line def wont be due to using these products. Are you wanting advice for the blemishes?
Hi Casey, pleasure 🙂 I've heard fab things about the Ovelle tablets from readers with pigmentation. The Lamelle range – heard great things. So your Vita C you will get from that post I've linked and it will be a serum, not a cream. Re Ovelle and breastfeeding, you will have to research that as I've never had a child so can't comment, sorry haha 🙂
Eeek so loved this post! I have some hormonal pigmentation from being on the pill, as well as marks left behind by spots, so this post is a godsend! xxx
sugarspiceblog.co.za/
Yes…for the blemishes. What else can I do?
Sorry a paragraph is missing from my initial post….I started it off talking about my blemishes. No idea where it went. I also mentioned I'm using the Dermalogica Vit C Serum. A gremlin got into my post. Sorry for the confusion.
Thanks Victoria! I didn't even know I had pigmentation (probably from pregnancy) until I had a skin analysis at Sisley. The thing I struggle with, because I have freckles, is differentiating the pigmentation from the freckles. Is it just a bigger blob as opposed to little "dots"? Perhaps mine is mild so it is difficult to see. Also, you once mentioned that dermapen/microneedling can also assist with pigmentation. Is that right? I went for once treatment and might start a course. Finally, unless it is skin specific, how often should I have microneedling? Most information says every 6 weeks but I have seen references to 3-4 times a year based on the skin's natural collagen production which occurs every 3 months/90 days. Thanks soooo much for being honest! Xx Carlyn
You can look at a product called La Roche Posay Effaclar duo just for the problem area
Oh good, such a pleasure x
HI Carlyn, pleasure. I have also freckles and, yes, pigmentation is your larger blotch of skin. Freckles is a form of pigmentation though and does mean we are more susceptible to it sadly. Dermapen and microneedling would def help the situation. It's dependant on the machine used so I would say 6 weeks is good but let the professional advise you depending on the machine she uses as they differ x
Thanks Victoria! I love freckles but it does suck that pigmentation comes along with it. I have been testing the Sisley lightening serum and I also saw Avene's D-Pigment Brightening Serum yesterday, so I'll give it a try (much cheaper!). Xx Carlyn
Yes the Avene one is a good price, but ultimately it's going to be your laser or peels that make a diff. I love freckles too, and agree 🙁
Is pigmentation the same as age spots? (I'm in my 30's, so maybe not quite age spots yet) My pigmentation is on my forehead inbeteen hair line and brows. At the moment I just use a cocncealor. What would be a good serum or product to start off with?
Yes it is. See above in blog post for my recommendations
Thanks so much for this post Tori. I've been struggling with pigmentation around my mouth area, all hormonal related, which is just so annoying. But I can't tell you how much this post has helped me. It's really made me understand the whole concept on pigmentation much better. I've already incorporated a vit c serum into my skincare routine and I'd like to start on retinol as I am 27… I do have sensitive skin so I'm not sure what and how I should do it. Pls help. Thanks so much. xx
Such a pleasure! I would go for something like the Sk.In serum in Flash 1 (there is a full blog post reviewing these serums (quite recent one) and that's the mildest one 🙂
Tori ♡ Danté here – we worked very briefly together at Ogilvy back in the day, I hope you're well. Firstly – It makes me so so happy to see how well you're doing, and how you've stayed completely true to yourself this entire time (unlike so many beauty and skin care influencers out there) so, go you! You are SO BLIMMIN GOOD. Secondly I know you hate it when people ask you questions that you've already written about or that you can simply google, but I am struggling with this one! I developed some pigmentation (weirdly after living in cloudy London for 3 years) above my lip – awesome. Have seen a dermo, hats are my new mates, I avoid the sun at all costs and have used creams with all the delicious ingredients you often talk about. What has happened though, is the creams seem to have lightened the pigmentation ever so slightly, but lightened the SHIT out of the "good" skin, just outlining my lips. Almost making the pigmentation show MORE because of the contrast! I try avoid rubbing it as close to the lip but it still seems to make the area so so light. Is that normal, and should I be patient or just ditch the creams altogether? Confused, with a borderline tache… Danté XX
Hello lovely Dante, so good to hear from you and thanks for your kind words XXX Ah, dreaded pigmentation – its the worst and so often down to way deeper reasons than just sun damage (hormones, hereditary, body temp etc). I haven't heard of or seen a case like you describe. What is the product? Sounds odd. I would be weary as the results shouldn't be as drastic as you describe. Just be careful of 'lightening' creams – they get results but can be drastic (like the sounds of this one). Let me know as happy to try help xxx
And sorry, I see this reply is SO late. Joys of the back end of Blogger. Not ideal xxx
Hi Tori,
Thanks for all the updates on this subject!! I was just wondering, since it's been nearly two years since this post, have you found anything that works best for you with regard to dealing with pigmentation?